SUMMARY
This report addresses the safety of 10 Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary)-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. Most of
the ingredients included in this review are extracts, essential oils, powders, or waters derived from a defined part of the
Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) plant. The Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary)-derived ingredients are reported to have a
number of functions in cosmetics, and the most common functions are as a skin conditioning agent or as a fragrance ingredi-
ent. According to VCRP data obtained from the FDA, rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extract has the most uses, 729,
followed by rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf oil, 474 uses, and rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) extract, 404 uses.
Most of the reported use concentrations for Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary)-derived ingredients are well below 0.1%.
However, rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extract has higher concentrations of use reported, specifically, use at up to
10% in body and hand products and 3% in eye shadow formulations and bath soaps and detergents. Rosmarinus officinalis
(rosemary) flower/leaf/stem water is the only ingredient not reported to be used.
Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) extract is prepared by extraction from the leaves of Rosmarinus officinalis with acetone,
ethanol, hexane, a combination of hexane and ethanol (in a two-step process), or supercritical CO
2
; it can also be prepared
from a deodorized or partially deodorized ethanol extract of rosemary. Additional methods include extraction with absolute
ethanol (resulting in an absolute) or a collection of the insoluble waxes (resulting in a concrete).
Rosmarinus officinalis L. is composed of an array of constituents, primarily phenolic acids, flavonoids, monoterpenes, diter-
penes, diterpenoids, and triterpenes. The principal antioxidative components of rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extract
are the phenolic diterpenes carnosol and carnosic acid. The actual amount of constituents present varies according to the
stage of development, variety of plant, season harvested, origin of the leaves, and extraction method.
Rosemary oil increased the permeation of aminophylline through human skin, but the increase was not as great as that seen
with 50% ethanol.
The acute toxicity of Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary)-derived ingredients is not very remarkable. The dermal LD
50
of ros-
marinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf oil is > 10 ml/kg. The oral LD
50
of rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaves is >2 g/kg,
of rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extract is >8.5 g/kg, and of rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf oil is 5.5 g/kg bw.
A number of oral repeated-dose toxicity studies were performed in mice and in rats with Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary)
leaves extracted in a various solvents. Doses as high as 14.1 g/kg bw rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extract were
tested (5 days by gavage), and some studies were performed for up to 3 mos (dietary) with doses of up to 400 mg/kg bw/day.
Increases in absolute and relative liver-to-body weights were observed in many of the studies, independent of the extraction
method; these changes were shown to be reversible, and no other signs of toxicity were observed. Oral administration of
rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf oil with carbon tetrachloride, but not without, resulted in an increase in liver weights.
Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extract has been shown to have anti-inflammatory activity. Rosmarinus officinalis
(rosemary) leaf extract inhibited a TPA-induced increase in the number of epidermal cell layers and epidermal thickness in
mouse skin.
A high dose (500 mg/kg/day) of Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leave extract was a reproductive toxicant in a dietary
study in male rats. In a study in gravid female Wistar rats, no statistically significant changes were observed after oral dosing
with 26 mg/day of a 30% aq. rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) flower/leaf/stem extract during preimplantation or during
organogenesis. In a dietary study in ovariectomized CD-1 mice, 2% of a methanol extract of Rosmarinus officinalis (rose-
mary) leaves inhibited the uterine response in a statistically significant manner.
In a clinical study investigating the effects on sex steroid hormones and metabolic markers of a botanical supplement contain-
ing 100 mg Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf 5:1 extract (and other botanical ingredients) in premenopausal women, a
few changes were found. Overall, the changes were not remarkable.
In vitro, rosemary extract (solvent not specified) and rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf oil were not mutagenic in an
Ames test, and rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extract was not genotoxic in an Ames test, a chromosomal aberration
assay in human lymphocytes, or a gene-locus mutation assay in human lymphocytes. In in vivo studies in mice and rats, oils
that were extracted by hydrodistillation induced statistically significant increases in chromosomal aberrations without gaps in
a chromosomal aberration assay at 2000 mg/kg bw, increases in micronucleated polychromatic erythrocytes (MNPCEs) in
several micronucleus tests at 1000 and 2000 mg/kg bw, and increases in DNA damage in a comet assay at ≥300 mg/kg bw;
however, no genotoxic effects were seen in mice in a micronucleus test at 1500 mg/kg bw/day with leaves extracted with ab-
solute ethanol. A hydro-alcoholic extract of rosemary was not genotoxic in a chromosomal aberration assay or a micronucle-
us test in rats. A mixture containing 19% Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaves, 71.5% St. John’s Wort, and 9.5% spiru-
lina induced in mice statistically significant increases in MNPCEs at 760 and 1520 mg/kg bw/day in a micronucleus test; in
frequency of aneuploidy, percent polyploidy, and total percent aberrations with 760 and 1520 mg/kg bw/day in a chromo-
somal aberration assay; and in frequency of banana-shaped, swollen acrosome, and triangular head sperm abnormalities and
percent total spermatozoa abnormalities at 1520 mg/kg bw/day in a spermatozoa abnormality assay.
Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extract was shown to have anti-mutagenic potential in vitro. In vivo, in micronucleus
assays, rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extract did not decrease the number of MNPCEs induced by a genotoxic agent.